And for my next trick.....BANG!

[aminorjourney]

.... and don't over voltage it, even if it's within the 25% tollerance. I'm sure the reason my controller blew is that I live in a hilly place and thus I'm always asking a large current from the controller. Not only that, but I was running at 24-36V controller at between 40 and 50 Volts (depending on battery state-of-charge).

Chris, Curtis were great... but perhaps (and I hate saying this) it's because I have different bits that I got such good service.....

[electricvehicles]

Guru

You really are on a bit of a downer with Curtis Controllers, why ?

The 1204/05 controllers used on the City as we all know is a very old/basic design of speed controller. But remember this model has been in production for 20 odd years and is still being produced and used by 99.5% of golf buggy manufacturers.
I for one have had a fleet of 60 passenger carrying buggies at Heathrow all running on the 1204 controllers for in excess of 10 years. But I hasten to add the set up is not the norm. We have fitted speed management units with closed loop feed back to these to limit the speed down to a record breaking 4.5MPH. And as you are aware running at lower speeds increases the loading on the controller. But we have had no controllers fail in this time. Bog standard 1204s 0-5K input 48V 300A driving a 36-48V 3Hp motor.

Have you ever used a 1207 1214/15 or 19? you might be surprised at its features. And also it ability to be abused. The materials handling industry is a lot harder on equipment than road users. And again we have had very few problems whilst using Curtis

On to another point G-Wiz aka Reva utilises a curtis 1244 in the DC/sepex version and their new AC version the 1238. I personally have heard of no controller failures in the 5 odd years since being sold in the UK.

In my opinion if Curtis Controllers are used within their parameters they will outlast whatever they are fitted to, failures seem only to occur when the controllers are being used outside their parameters, usually by inexperienced engineers.

OK Alltrax are good but what for ??? I have never seen one last more than 4 years -- have you ??? And to my knowledge they have never applied for Ce approval and as such will not be permitted to be used within the market place other than self build projects, but mind your insurance company -- I have just been finalised my reports regarding a very large claim concerning a Curtis 1204 ( not X rate ) non Ce approved controller.

Another good contender is Zapi -- Good reliable controllers that I have had personal experience with. 10 H2 fitted almost 10years ago with only one going down, and that was within a couple of days of it being fitted, since then no troubles whatsoever.

[aminorjourney]

for what it's worth I have to say that the 1204X I had in my car had taken some pretty big abuse

I'll let you all know how I get on with the 48V replacement

I was actually considering a Curtis for the minor, but we'll see how things go. The thing which does frustrate me a little about them is that they're sealed so you can't see what's gone on inside when one brakes without actually destroying the case... unless someone has some tips on how to open one up that is!

[anachrocomputer]

unless someone has some tips on how to open one up that is!

Have Dremel, will open Curtis controllers...

[aminorjourney]

Excellent! But where is my replacement? It was due today and still no sign!

[EVguru]

unless someone has some tips on how to open one up that is!

Have Dremel, will open Curtis controllers...

What do you need a Dremel for?

A good sharp flat bladed screwdriver (effectivly used as a flat bottomed drill) will remove the potting over the screws on the base plate.

Using a small cross-pein hammer, tap around the edge of the potting on the terminal end to break the seal.

Undo the base plate screws and the whole power stage should slide out.

A smear of silicon will re-seal the end upon reassembly, but some people have added a vent to allow condensation to be driven out.

They're not the easiest things to fix. Curtis used a custom freewheel diode that's not generally available. Most alternatives have the wrong polarity, so you would have to put an isolation pad underneath the diode and that make the current sharing problems in the diodes much worse.

There are a couple of US companies that rebuild and/or upgrade Curtis controllers.

[electricvehicles]

They are sealed for a purpose --- To stop tinkering fingers tinkering with them. Thats why the only way into them other than Curtis is via the programmer. Just leave them as they are !!! They work fine and exceed their specifications.
If you tinker with a combustion engine to get a bit more, as we all know you will you will reduce its life, same with a Curtis

[qdos]

I think the Curtis which is being talked about here is already blown as I believe it's the one which was fried the other week. I'm sure Nikki will say weather or not this is correct. In which case basically it's curiosity as to what's gone inside and if it might be fixable if only for the experimentation. If the controller is broken already then it's pretty much the perfect item to have a tinker with as there's nothing much to be lost.

A lot of us here like to tinker and fiddle, other than the G-Wiz and the Prius most of the other vehicles we chat about here have been built or customised by the members. We're an inquisitive bunch and we love to open up boxes and see what inside them. Sure this can cause things to go bang now and then but then that's how we make discoveries.

Please though guys try to keep a level head I'm not sure if you've met one another or not but if you have or do I'm sure you'd both agree you've both got a lot of experience which we as a group value and appreciate hearing about.

Re fiddling with internal combustion engines and the likes yep some folk blow them up by tinkering and over stressing them, others manage to make them go further and better. If you don't try jumping off the mountain all you'll ever see is the side you climb up, but if you jump you might just get to see the whole range that it's part of

(PS if you're lost by the little gem of a comment at the end there then perhaps if I tell you I'm a hang glider pilot it might shed some light on it and yes I like 'jumping', although I'd call it a controlled step into the sky )

[ChrisB]

Chris, Curtis were great... but perhaps (and I hate saying this) it's because I have different bits that I got such good service.....

Did suspect that Always wondered about those "different" bits, and wondered if I could get some temporary ones

Excellent! But where is my replacement? It was due today and still no sign!

Glad to see the different bits didnt enhance the delivery

They are sealed for a purpose --- To stop tinkering fingers tinkering with them. Thats why the only way into them other than Curtis is via the programmer. Just leave them as they are !!! They work fine and exceed their specifications.
If you tinker with a combustion engine to get a bit more, as we all know you will you will reduce its life, same with a Curtis

I think thats just it , we as in us EV'ers , tend to abuse the poor things somewhat , I managed to toast mine but that was cos some twonk fed 120v in to the 5K pot connections
Must admit I didnt think the 1200 series could be programmed ?? thought they where fixed and the only adjustments where via the 3 little pots under the allen screws or am I thinking of the wrong ones ??

ChrisB

[aminorjourney]

Yup - the controller in question is already blown. Since it's dead and no-longer ever going to function again the purpose of opening it up was purely to see what was going on inside

Let's call it a post mortem, if you will