Support for Evie cars

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Grumpy-b
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Dec 09, 2012 5:22 pm

Most of it is based upon the HPEV and Curtis standard schematics. As such there does not appear to be an overall schematic. I dont see that as a problem though. The UK cars had no interconnection to the Can bus, the european ones did as they had to have an interaction with the Automatic stability control that was fitted to them.

The various systems such as the heater and the DC to DC connection I will see if any of this is both available and releaseable.
It is unlikely that any details of the BMS will be released. Of all parts that is the one that seems to be contracturally and operationally locked down. I have looked at availability of replacements (THe boards are not cheap) and am in discussions about this and the software. I hold out little hope for the latter to be released. Personally I do believe that some form application allowing users to download the Battery record would be good, but the current version of the software allows the user to change a lot and put the car out of use by doing so, so I do understand ECCs concerns at releasing their software as it is.

I will be building up an inventory of parts over time, and some may be available on a recon basis, like the MES DEA heater which I will be dismantling this week to see if its repairable.

It would be good to keep these on the road, and ECC do appreciate that being unable to offer support isnt the best situation, hence our working together.

I am not doing this for free, I will only be paid by ECC for Warranty work, so my access to parts and existing users will be a source of income, and hopefully help users to keep the cars in use at a more realistic cost. Any remanufature of parts or new products like the DC to DC controller to stop the 12v going flat, and a new motor coupling are my own investment.

I have great faith not only in the EVie but the HPEV / Curtis system. I am considering doing a Mazda RX8 but I doubt that I would go down the sparking performance route, but rather a really nice EV for family usage with a bit of style. I have also been asked to consider a couple of Audi A2s which will ultmately be turned into working flat bed pickups. All great projects and It would be nice if some of it comes off.

Grumpy-b

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ChrisB
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby ChrisB » Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:33 pm

An excellent start then 8)

My only concern if any, is it doesnt end up going down the same route as the Berlingo were info was scarce and the only one person who seemed to know anything about them seemed very closed about sharing anything :cry:

ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!

Grumpy-b
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Dec 30, 2012 8:40 pm

Most of the systems are standard HPEV and the Curtis controller is std stuff. The main areas of issue are the motor coupling, and the BMS. The latter is an issue and at the moment ECC wont agree to releasing the software and I think may have some restrictions with licence from the chap who developed it. I have suggested a version be considered with just a download capablity to stop people inadvertantly killing their cars. Thats not been discussed at length. I have however got agreement from the company that actually made the BMS board, so that I can purchase them if needs arrise.
I am now spending a bigger chunk of my time working on EVs commercially so I will have to take a commercial approach, however there is much self help that is better to help happen by providing details of how things work, than attempting to make a tiny profit from. If I can make parts available and improve how things function then most of these cars can be kept on the road for years to come. The biggest problem I perceive is with the BMS systems and the way in which the batteries are able to get so badly ballanced and users suffer drastically reduced ranges. This isnt helped by users who dont follow the charging instructions and who let the 12v battery go flat. To help with that I now have a device that monitors a 12v battery and when it goes below 12.2v will turn on the DC to DC for 2 hrs to keep it topped up.

I will hopefully get some information that ECC will agree to release made available soon.

Happy new year to all
Grumpy-b

Grumpy-b
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:06 pm

A few observations.
A number of users are havig problems with badly mismatched cells and consequential low range. Looking at some of the logs the users have not followed the ECC guidance on charging. Whilst leaving them on charge doesnt seem like the best thing to do, what is happening is that the BMS is slowly taking down the higher capacity cells. Its very slow and very inneffecient. It looks like most of the Packs were used as supplied (Supposedly balanced sets) from China, so I feel that some packs were not perhaps as balanced at the start as they could have been. The Thindersky instructions say that the first charge should be from the crate to 4.1v . What really then needed top be done was to bottom balance them from the start.

There are still afew people needing Couplings, I am having difficulties in getting the Broach used for the internal spline cutting to make my own replacements.. If you are desperate look at this. http://www.everything-ev.com/index.php? ... Path=65_79
Its not cheap and its on a 4+ week delivery.

Look at your charge plug on the car. They are mounted in a Nylon ring held into the fuel neck by a stainless, Jubilee style clip. This can rotate. I recently found one that kept tripping the power supply. The Plug was wet inside . It should rest with the Earth pin at the bottom, where there should also be a drain hole. Check this and if needs be rotate the plug by slackening the Jubilee turning the plug and retightening.

I have noticed that a number of the original supplied 16 amp modified Socket has ripped sleeve/ gaitor where the cable enters the socket. Not good if its raining. I do hold stocks of a modified socket that uses a compressible rubber to seal the cable and works really well. I can do an exchange lead, but since I have waited about two years for the last exchange part I sent out I would charge a hefty deposit.

9Pin sockets for the BMS situated either at the front NS or under the rear carpet, these can corrode and the screws go rusty, it may be worthwhile sealing these in a bag or smearing the plated metal parts with vaseline or similar. Or seal it into a small plastic box, where the lid could be unscrewed.


Grumpy-b

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ChrisB
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby ChrisB » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:28 pm

Grumpy-b wrote:A few observations.
A number of users are havig problems with badly mismatched cells and consequential low range. Looking at some of the logs the users have not followed the ECC guidance on charging. Whilst leaving them on charge doesnt seem like the best thing to do, what is happening is that the BMS is slowly taking down the higher capacity cells. Its very slow and very inneffecient. It looks like most of the Packs were used as supplied (Supposedly balanced sets) from China, so I feel that some packs were not perhaps as balanced at the start as they could have been. The Thindersky instructions say that the first charge should be from the crate to 4.1v . What really then needed top be done was to bottom balance them from the start.


So what your saying is that its best to leave them connected all the time to the mains when not being used

ChrisB
I reject reality and substitute my own !!!!!!

Grumpy-b
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:08 pm

(First I should appologise for my poor spilling I didnt chuck it before I posted))
Thats what ECC suggest, leave them on charge. and if not then put them on charge every few days.

The other problem many users who dont leave them on charge or regularly charge them is the 12v battery going flat. If that happens you haveto charge the 12v back up to a decent 12v before the charger will come on line and the curtis kick in.

More observations to come.

Grumpy-b

Grumpy-b
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby Grumpy-b » Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:24 pm

The BMS will cut off the charge if a cell goes over 4.3v, interestingly I have car with a problem of poor range. Looking at the log of voltages, which ceased a year ago at over 12,000 lines. It obviously hadnt been read or cleared, so unfortunately it has no recent data relating to the latest problems. But the vehicle had been left standing unplugged and uncharged. The BMS continued togently bleed the vehicle trying to keep the cells even,most were well below 2v but one was up over 3.3v its bleed circuit had obviously got a fault. Problem is when you recharge its voltage now goes high quickly and so eventually cuts off the charge with the rest of the cells still way below they charge, and voltage. So bleed circuit needs checking.

On the charger front, I am trialing a different approach rather than let the BMS control the voltage which I think goes too high too fast , I am using a new chip from Zivan that I can set the voltage on and leave the charger to do its job at a slightly lower voltage, but for longer. The BMS can still control the on/off link so giving some security that any cell isnt going to go too high.

Grumpy-b

LarJammer
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby LarJammer » Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:39 pm

I just wanted to add to this thread if I may. I used to work for ecc I'm willing to help out if any of you guys are stuck. I've dealt with matt a few times re his car. Grumpy seems to be doing a fine job so I don't want to tread on any toes!

Grumpy-b
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby Grumpy-b » Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:21 am

An area where some vigilance is worth while is the mains connector.
The plug is fitted into a machined plastic ring, that is then inserted in the C1 fuel cap hole and secured by a jubilee clamp on the outside of the C1 plastc fuel hole moulding under the wheel arch.
Firstly ensure that the earth pin is at the bottom, and that there is a drain hole in the lower side of the plug (Or check where the drain hole is and rotate that to the bottom) . If this has turned around then slacken the Jubilee clamp rotate the plug and tighten. If the plug is turning in the ring, then a simple solution is to drill a small 2mm hole in the join between the two parts then, gently drill to a 5 or 6mm countersink, then put a self tapper in the hole. This will pin the two parts together. But do be very careful not to drill into the plug body. You will need a long drill bit to enable a parallel hole to the plug sides.
If there is no drain hole take the plug out of the fuel hole (It wont come out far as the cable isnt over long , but enough to be able to work on it) and drill a 3mm hole, do deburr both sides.
Also on the connector front, all of the Evies I have seen of about 3 years old have splits in the vehicle charge lead socket gaiter where the cable enters the socket, this does mean that water can get into it. One I replaced this week had water in it and corrosion on the terminals, so obviously been damp for a while. I have a nice version of the socket that has a compression grip on the cable and so will never have this as a problem, I also remove both the flap and its support making it a bit cleaner.
This recently coroded socket also was very stiff to get off the car, that is also a problem as it will make the chances of a loose plug much more likely. SO if the connector is stiff to remove, replace the socket on the charge lead.

Grumpy-b

mattcarr
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Re: Support for Evie cars

Postby mattcarr » Wed Mar 06, 2013 10:04 pm

I have to say that I am happy as a pig in s**t with my car. The only thing that was wrong was the heater - it just wasn;t connected up when I got the car. A couple of hours on a sunny day and this was soon connected up and working. And apart from me blowing up the BMS and having to discover just how expensive they are to have replaced :-) the only thing that went wrong was the coupler between the motor and gearbox, everything else seems to be working great.

What I would like to see changed or improved :

I would love to have the SOC be able to see the regeneration current and count this as power back in to the battery pack. I have been told that this would require a firmware upgrade in the controller - Grumpy, do you know anything about this?

Heater control. This is just an on off switch controller by the heat level selector in the car. I am considering fitting a separate on off switch so that I can then use the heat selection. I know some might consider this a poor move - whats the point in running the heater to just mix it back with cooler air? I find that sometimes the cabin gets too warm and I would like to have the option of just turning the heat down slightly rather than having to turn the heater off alltogether.

I would live to have a higher power charger fitted - so that I can cram in more charge in a shorter time. I have considered a second charger with a way of managing it's use when I have a higer power outlet available.

Higher top speed. There are a few runs I do and it would be nice to have a slightly higher top speed. These are mainly on slight downward inclines, and I would give up a small bit of range for a slightly higher top speed - only say another 10mph.

Apart from these few things I think the car is great, and I am so glad I made the choice to buy it when I did.

Matt


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