electrical fault after pressing accelerate pedal

[highend]

I've got one Berlingo from scrapyard in Gosport - got it charged, and then when it switches on (clicks) no problem but
gives electrical fault when I press acceleration pedal.
And it does not matter in what position gear selector is (P,D,R,N) - fault comes every time.
Eco Meter won't go anywhere and van won't drive.

I connected lexia and found two errors:

- temporary error: engine rotation speed sensor
- permament error: function of the motor drive circuit breaker

both error clears but after again pressing accelerate pedal - it comes again.
where to search for problems? All I can try is to swap controller to another one but this seems to be OK?

Tested also with lexia that when I press acceleration - the voltage increase
and also gearbox changes OK (in lexia shows OK) - so I assume both gear selector and accelerate pedal are OK.

So I assume that maybe controller & motor are OK - and there is just some sensor fault or some wires are shortened?

[ChrisB]

So you eventually got those ones out of the Gosport scrappy then in one peice

I can only presume because you were shipping them outside the UK he let them go like that, cos he would only break them if you were uk based and wanted 1k each ....for what ever bits you could take from them

As for the fault, check the field windings, sounds like the field may have given up the ghost and taken out the circuitry on the controller, can be checked by "carefully" applying a voltage to the field windings and see if things then work.

OR the feild boards gone poof because......they sometimes do.

First fault is just the controller not seeing the motor turn for a given input i.e throttle pedal, the second one is more concerning and could be because of the field issue, thats if it is a field problem of course.

ChrisB

[highend]

got two complete, and the other two in parts (cut in half)
but these "complete" have some parts (like 20cm of roof) also cut to be sure "not back to the road" - stupid but OK.

here picture of them inside yard:



both "complete" have probably controller failure - the other van behaves even more strange.
After turning ingnition on the ECO meter goes to max red (not pressing acceleration), but eVlite shows no Amps (shows usual 2 to 5 amps), also van clicks on OK (eco still on red) - but when I try to turn steering wheel (use any load) - it clicks out.
So both controllers have chargers & dc-dc converters OK, but the other thing may be damaged.

The guy who repairs controllers in Poland told me that it is not good idea putting voltage directly on motor. What should I do?
He also claim that first controller should be OK, and could have "dirty" contactor. So he advised to open controller and check that out. I will also test second controller in working Blingo.

Also I think their batteries seems to have been OK - charged OK, (they can be stored empty forever) unless they were OK in 2007 (and I think most of these was).

[ChrisB]

Well done getting them out in one bit....sort of

Yeah I knew they all had faults of one thing or the other from the time I went down there and checked them all out with a view of purchasing one or more over two years ago now, but for the money he wanted it was too much of a risk to get a pile of broken bits with the hope that some of the batteries might be OK.

Yep batts may be OK depending how they were treated before hand again was just too much of a risk for me, certainly at 1K.

They had been in the yard for 5+ yrs I think and sat at the uni for another 3 or 4yrs at least, basically once citreon gave up on them and the uni couldnt find anyone to fix them as one by one they went wrong

You can liven up the field windings BUT you'll need to monitor voltages and current quite carefully, from memory I cant remember what sort of voltage the feild likes, if your not use to doing this or have the right PSU's and meters then as your chap says its not something you want to do, depends how proficient you are with this sort of stuff.

Controller wise I doubt its grubby contacts, have fun taking one apart they are quite interesting and take a while to do.

ChrisB

[highend]

Somebody told me to use two 12v batteries in serie to have 24v and then connect to motor when van is lifted up to check if it turns.

I have info that engine should turn with 30v and 7A.

About batteries from berlingos from scrapyard the good news is that battery boxes are from 2002 and 2004 so if they were in storage for 5+ years they should be ok.

[highend]

I've managed to run one of these vans. There was accelerator pedal fault (thats why eco went to max red). Easy to fix.
This was one with 1200Ah counter and water light on. I've reset water and charged van,
carefuly drove 10 miles (with no numberplates ), got voltage still around 160V under load.
At 80% SOC I decided to return and do maintenance charge (doing now) and watering.
Will write how much water it got used. Seems these vans will do OK, and batteries should be mostly fine.

Update: van took only 6 liters of water - most of it went out. So it was watered and parked for 5 years
now I will test range.

Update 30th Dec. So I range-tested van today. Van was maintenance charged and rested for 2 days. It was also loaded with some spare batteries (about 100kg on the back), and me as driver. Temp. outside about +2 to +5°C, connected evlite. Showed 187V and -2°C batteries temperature (was during night probably -5 to -8°C). I started.... was driving.... driving... and driving... Still driving.
After 31miles, energy meter at 45%, batteries temperature +8°C I decided to finish, voltage under load was not falling below 152V, and it was under strong 155V when I returned home. So I didn't do full range test but I assume all batteries are OK, because voltage (155V under load) was far ahead to 138V where eco light would come on. Very happy about that

[ChrisB]

Looks like thats one of them sorted then

As I said they all had faults of one kind of another, from memory the battery boxes all had different dates on them so most had been changed at one time or another I think.

ChrisB

[highend]

Looks like thats one of them sorted then

As I said they all had faults of one kind of another, from memory the battery boxes all had different dates on them so most had been changed at one time or another I think.

ChrisB

I'm pretty sure that most valuable thing (batteries) will be OK in every of them. They had little-to-stupid errors, like one 1200ah overcharge AH and water light ON while it was watered and just not "water reset" ? another one has got controller problem (repairable), and all of them were sat 5 years with no charge. So perfect for NiCd storage - also important that batteries were in vans (not dismantled and opened to air). Less usage to them - means better batteries they have.

And as you said they were little used by this university because of these problems which nobody could solve? I can imagine that in 2005-2006 when only few people had knowledge about them....

I cannot drive another one because it has smashed front glass with holes in it - so that would be really stupid thing to do. But I will lift both front wheels up and start to drive it while parked - of course this is bad range test because wheels have no rolling resistance but at least I will make some charge/discharge cycles.

Current weather here is good to do some tests - sunny days and pretty warm (+5°C) and snow is gone. Quite strange for end of december.
Also Happy New Year 2013