![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Turned everything right down, and it runs fine
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Slowly ramped everything up over a series of runs, seeing what each variable actually changes in the car, and its all brilliant, getting a good feel for what it can do.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Doing a lot of stopping and starting so the controller got a bit warm, up to 70 degrees (no cooling in place). So I stopped fiddling with the settings and let it cool. Not a problem. Its all good, i'm happy.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Took the motor current up to a max of 350A, which is good for 25mph in 4th. Motor voltage reading goes to max of 37v, but I still need to go through some setting, surely it should go up to 96V??
Anyway, its doing OK.
Three cheers, yay!
Then i go to adjust the potentiometer and dropped my spanner so it touched btwm the Motor Negative (M1) and the positive of the potentiometer. Spark
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
The console went blank and the diagnostic LED starts flashing
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
If I disconnect the potentiometer I get no fault codes flashing on the LED, which is good, I think, I hope, I prey. But even with the potentiometer disconnected the colsole doesn't light up.
If I have the pot disconnected i can still trigger the forward contactor by pressing teh microswitch in teh 'throttle body'.
So I guess I have blown the potetiometer, not a problem, easy to fix, but I have probably blown the console too, which at £250 is a bit of a concern.
Worst case is that I have blown the controller, but only teh low voltage/current side of things.
Any one got any experience on this? I'll be calling Electrofit Zapi first thing in the morning, but if someone can offer advice in the mean time I might be able to sleep tonight!
Cheers
Chris